The Tenuta Cucco winemaker is run by Piero Rossi Cairo. His voyage from business lawyer to winemaker is innovative. First a mergers and acquisitions lawyer, Cairo’s transition highlights the rarity of such moves, marked by challenges like different skill sets, major career investments, monetary considerations, and the perceived prestige of the legitimate profession.
In 2015, upon his father’s demand, Cairo assumed command of Tenuta Cucco, incorporating it into the La Raia agricultural business. La Raia, spanning 180 acres in Novi Ligure, with 48 dedicated to flowers and qualified biodynamic since 2007, reflects Cairo’s love for biodynamic crops and wildlife survival, influenced by his girlfriend. The property includes a area of art deployments, a boutique hotel, and a premium restaurant, extending beyond standard garden boundaries.
Past Rights
When the Stroppiana home took control of Tenuta Cucco in 1966, the story underwent a transformational period. The Rossi Cairo family, known for their pure and biodynamic plantation La Raia, bought the estate in 2015 and concentrated on making La Raia a wine-producing brand.
The problems included switching from bulk sales to bottled wine and highlighting the slow but steady improvement of the planting and commercial sectors. La Raia’s vines, some over seventy years old, increase in clay- stone ground, imparting the unique metal character to the Cortese grapes. Biodynamic gardening, initiated in 2002, allowed the treatment of terroir peculiarities, with Rossi Cairo employing natural manure, horn dung, cave sulfur, and copper in specific measures, and employing gentle tractors for vineyard work.
La Raia’s dedication extends to wildlife, visible in the production of three pure honeys. The part that Piero Rossi Cairo played in guiding Tenuta Cucco toward sustainable techniques reflects both a commitment to producing real Barolo wines that embody the area’s terroir.
La Raia, under Piero Rossi Cairo’s information, embraces biodynamic concepts, treating the garden as a personal- boosting habitat. This methodical approach has led to some outstanding Gavi DOCG wines, which are the result of a visionary harmonisation of tradition and nature.
La Raia’s distinctive approach involves DNA testing grape skins to determine the best yeast strain to use in wines that reflect the terroir. Situated in Gavi, the property, certified biodynamic by Demeter, not only serves as a winery but also houses a Steiner school and art foundation.
The Tenuta Cucco organization produces three types of Gavi D. O. C. G. and two red varieties of Barbera D. O. C. ( Nebbiolo and Barolo Nebbiolo ), certified organic since 2018. The family’s unwavering support for organic and biodynamic practices has had an impact on the wine industry, serving as a powerful illustration of how to create exceptional wines while protecting the environment for future generations.
My Personal Opinion
1. Barolo DOCG. Cerrati 2019
This wine is distinguished and elegant. This vintage embodies the essence of the Barolo appellation thanks to its expertly crafted blend of Nebbiolo grapes from the renowned Cerrati vineyard.
The wine has a vibrant ruby-red color with orange hues in the glass as a prelude to the complex bouquet that awaits. Aromas of roses, fresh herbs, and ripe red fruits, such as cherry and raspberry, intertwine with subtle notes of violet, rose petals, and a touch of earthiness, capturing the essence of the terroir.
On the palate, the Barolo Cerrati 2019 reveals a harmonious balance of flavors. The rich, velvety texture is complemented by well- integrated tannins, providing structure and age- worthiness. Layers of dark fruit, hints of licorice, balsamic notes, orange zest, and a subtle minerality unfold, culminating in a long and lingering finish that leaves a lasting impression. The tannins are elegant and well- integrated.
The winery’s skill and meticulous vineyard management at Tenuta Cucco are a testament to this vintage. The wine has been carefully aged in oak barrels, which adds complexity and a refined touch of spice and oak notes.
This wine is ideal for special occasions or reflections. Its distinctive character and expressive style make it a standout example of the Barolo terroir.
2. La Raia Gavi DOCG. 2020 Vigna Madonnina
The Madonnina vineyard is located within La Raia’s estate. The calcareous, clayish, and marly soil is particularly suitable for Cortese vine farming. The vineyards are free of chemical and fertilizer substances. The soil is planted with green manure ( broad beans, peas, and clover ) which, once trimmed, transforms into fertilizer and humus.
This wine is a captivating expression of the Gavi appellation and demonstrates the mastery of winemaking at La Raia. Gavi is renowned for producing high-quality white wines, primarily made from Cortese grapes.
In the glass, the wine exhibits a pale straw- yellow color with greenish reflections, showcasing its freshness and youthful vibrancy. An aromatic bouquet that combines floral and fruity elements greets the nose right away. Delicate notes of white flowers, such as acacia and jasmine, mingle with citrus aromas like lemon and green apple, creating an enticing and refreshing olfactory experience.
On the palate, it offers a crisp and lively mouthfeel. The bright acidity imparts a zesty character, enhancing the wine’s overall freshness. The flavors mirror the aromatic profile, with a focus on citrus fruits, green pear, and a subtle hint of almond. The minerality is noteworthy, adding a distinct layer of complexity and contributing to the wine’s elegant structure.
This cuvée is a testament to La Raia’s commitment to organic and biodynamic practices. The vineyard, certified by Demeter, emphasizes sustainability and harmony with the surrounding ecosystem. The 2020 vintage, showcases the winemaker’s dedication to preserving the authenticity of the Gavi terroir.
The Gavi seamlessly combines tradition, terroir, and modern winemaking expertise. It can be enjoyed as a refreshing aperitif or paired with a range of dishes, including seafood, light salads, or white meat poultry.
© Dr. Elinor Garely. This copyright article, including photos, may not be reproduced without written permission from the author.
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